Fashion Jack Dahlstrom  

Asaf Jah 1 The First Nizam, Elusive Diamond Turban Ornaments 

Asaf Jah I, the founder of the Asaf Jahi dynasty and the first Nizam of Hyderabad (reigned 1724–1748), was known not only for establishing a powerful and wealthy princely state but also for his luxurious lifestyle and opulence. This was clearly reflected in his attire and personal adornments. His turban ornaments and jewels were symbols of both regal authority and immense wealth.

Opulent turban ornaments in the collection of Asaf Jah 1, were crafted with precious stones like rubies, sapphires and emeralds. The turban ornament was referred to as a sarpech or kalgi, it was a signature piece in the Nizam’s turban. Asaf Jah 1 did not start the tradition of wearing turban ornaments, these accessories were known for centuries. 

Most of the turban ornaments worn by the Nizams, had rare emeralds, rubies or sapphires as the center gemstone. With the start of Asaf Jah 1, the first Nizam of Hyderabad the Golconda diamond mines, came under the control of the Nizams. It is therefore no surprise that, diamonds were at times prominently set in turban ornaments worn by the Nizams. Most designs seem to suggest that, diamonds were used as accent stones rather than, as center stones – talking about turban ornaments. 

Recent rumors seem to suggest that, Asaf Jah 1 the first Nizam had two turban ornaments that, were studded with rare colored diamonds from the Golconda mines. The reference is to a fine pink diamond and a vivid blue diamond. Diamond collectors have shown interest but, authenticated information on the two diamonds has been elusive. Given the general designs for royal turban ornaments during that period, it is likely that the diamonds were in the 6 to 9 carat size range. Vivid blue diamonds are extremely rare, reputed diamond testing offices like GIA and Gubelin, rarely assign a ‘vivid blue’ color rating, for blue diamonds that come to them for certification. 

Whispers of a diamond known as the Seraphim Blue Diamond, which apparently is a part of a European collection, has raised the possibility of it being the vivid blue diamond, in the turban ornament worn by Asaf Jah 1. Linking a diamond to the Nizams of Hyderabad elevates its allure and historical significance dramatically, even among seasoned diamond collectors and connoisseurs. Auction houses are always eager to host auctions of historic diamonds on their platform but this, requires authentications of the diamond from a reputed testing office. 

Some narratives suggest that, Asaf Jah 1 would wear those lavish diamond turban ornaments, only on very special occasions. Judging by the fact that a similar turban ornament was not seen, after the first Nizam wore it could indicate one of two things. The first possibility is that, the rumors relate more to a fictional story rather than a fact. This would be clear if and when certified and authenticated details, of the Seraphim Blue Diamond are actually revealed. The second possibility is that, the first Nizam’s blue diamond turban ornament, exited the Nizam’s treasury somewhere during the reign of the first or second Nizam. 

At this point of time, the Seraphim Blue Diamond is merely the subject of a story. Official authentication will be required to tie all the parts of this fascinating story together. A number of questions remain unanswered but, diamond collectors are hopeful of seeing an authenticated version of the narrative, in the near future.